![]() 04/20/2015 at 11:56 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I’m going to get the wheels of the Jaaag powdercoated as they’re corroding like mad and look a bit pants. I’m undecided as to what colour to do them, but my photoshop skills extend solely to altering the contrast on photos to make them a bit fancier and the pencil tool on MS Paint :S I was wondering what they’d look like in bronze, or bronze centre with a silver rim.
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:01 |
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Silver is nice....unless you want to go kras, then glossy black also works for me. Keep in mind though, I would do the whole car in black, a murdered out Jaaaaag is always a thing of beauty.
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:07 |
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I’m on the lookout for an early base model 2.9l manual in black. I’d stick in the 4.0l lump I have sitting around (with a bit of fettling), source a set of full-size steelies older Jags had as spares, paint them black and cruise around in my murdermobile :)
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:10 |
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“and look a bit pants.”
Well now we know you’re from the UK... LOL
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:10 |
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If it were gold, and you were to repaint the body black and gold, you could have a Bandit edition Jag in a jiffy. Yes, I know those aren’t snowflake rims, but they’re similar enough to be a twerp about, and in the end, isn’t that what matters?
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:28 |
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Hah! I could have the roaring Jaguar logo emblazoned on the bonnet :)
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:28 |
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Correct ;)
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:29 |
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YES. Now that you’ve said it, it has to become a reality if either of us get a private horse-trading farce off the ground. Too good to remain in imagination.
![]() 04/20/2015 at 12:30 |
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Polished lip and body color matched centers? just for something different.
![]() 04/20/2015 at 13:17 |
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I didn’t clean them up but the bronze looks pretty cool, my brother had some BBS wheels with that style back in the day on his rx7. I like that original jaaag silver also tho.
![]() 04/20/2015 at 13:24 |
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![]() 04/20/2015 at 13:40 |
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Got a bit carried away with the murdering.
![]() 04/20/2015 at 15:03 |
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Oh that does look good. I do like the black centres, but I think I would need an inch more rim width for it to be perfect. 16” instead of 15” would make it look soooo good.
Shame sets of 16” Jag alloys go for ~£350 :S
![]() 04/20/2015 at 15:04 |
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...I like that a lot. If it was painted black it would be brilliant...
![]() 04/20/2015 at 15:06 |
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Hmmmm, I do like that but I’m not sure I like it more than the silver. I think if there was less brightwork around (like the rub-strip along the side) it would look better with the bronze wheels.
Thanks :)
![]() 04/20/2015 at 15:08 |
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Someone on g+ sort of stumbled onto that.
What do you reckon? Could do with some more colour to them, but that’s the gyst...
![]() 09/23/2015 at 13:19 |
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i9 hear you tried doing some swaps on the Jag. Thats what i’m thinking of doing too. Were you able to get a manual transmission in there?
![]() 09/24/2015 at 17:33 |
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I was on my previous jag yeah, before the tree fell on iy anyway :S
I got most of the way to swapping in the 5-speed Geetrag that came in the manual versions of these in. Bit of a bastard job, but mainly because of rusted bolts and only having it on jackstands so not much space to maneuvour.
What do you want to know?
![]() 09/24/2015 at 18:22 |
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I want to know everything. I’m not a pro mechanic so it’s a bit of an adventure for me. I really want an XJ and there are a couple around here for cheap but according to the Internet non in the US came with sticks. I really want a manual. Did u have a parts list?
![]() 09/28/2015 at 05:01 |
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Yeah sure :) you’re looking for a Getrag 265. I don’t think any XJs came to the states with them, but you might look at 6-cyl XJS’. I think they sold some convertible ones of those in the states, and they might have come with manuals.
What you’ll need is:
Gearbox (I think E24 635is came with Getrag 265s, but diff bellhousing. It’s a bolt-on one though so you might be able to source another and change it. Later cars had Getrag 295s which came with non-detachable bellhousings, but they fit the same pattern. Will need a different clutch plate and rear mount for those but otherwise the same)
Bellhousing (if you source a 265 from elsewhere)
Pedal box (early cars pre-1990 had boxes with just the clutch and brake pedal with a separate throttle mounted to the bodyshell, later cars had all 3 in one. Probably interchangeable with a bit of cutting and chopping if necessary)
Flywheel (any 6-cyl manual AJ6/AJ16 will do)
Clutch/clutch cover/release bearing (not certain if they’re interchangeable with any GM clutches, I think they might be but I have no idea which)
Clutch slave (hard to find actually, but I’ve definitely bought them. Can probably get dimensions if you need to look for alternatives)
Clutch master (usually attached to the pedal box)
Little pushrod between the clutch slave and the arm (I had to make my own one of these from a piece of rod. Never got to test whether it worked though, so you’ll probably need to make a few of varying lengths to get the release right)
Clutch alignment tool (can’t remember where I got mine from unfortunately
Propshaft (different for manual/auto versions. Different flange on the gearbox side. There’s also a difference between the diff side on some of them, some have straight flanges others have rubber doughnuts. From what I understand only the boggo spec ones had straight flanges so they probably wouldn’t have made it to the US. You can probably get your propshaft modified at a ‘shop if you can’t find a manual one)
Clutch pipe (bought some copper tube, some hydraulic unions, a flexi-pipe made for me by a hydraulic pipe-making firm and a pipe flaring kit. This was the job I was doing when the tree fell on it so I never got to finish it, but it wasn’t too hard. Had to buy some unions to adapt a standard-size pipe fitting to the hole in the master cylinder though as the size is a little odd...)
Rear gearbox mount and spring (I think they differ from the auto ones, and probably differ early/late but I’ll see if I can find any info on them)
From what I remember of the job:
The bellhousing bolts were utter bastards to get out, or rather one of them was. There’s one at the very top-left. All the others are blind holes (the bolt hole stops before it pokes out the other side, but this one goes all the way through so some threads stick out the other side which means they rust and get stuck. Try and find that before taking the gearbox off and hit it with some releasing fluid.
You can change over the brake master without taking off all the pipes if you want. You’ll need to unclip all the pipes from the bodywork which is easy enough, then pull it up just enough to slip over the mounting bolts. Careful not to tear the rubber boot inside it though which I managed to do :S
Oh, you’ll need to weld a little bracket onto the inside of the transmission tunnel to bolt the flexi-pipe to otherwise the movement of the gearbox will fatigue the copper clutch line.
Other things I’ll probably remember if prompted, and little things like where bolts are to get things off etc.
When I get home I'll have a trawl through my pictures and upload the ones I'd taken of the work :)